I got dropped off at the Etna Brewery with the trail runners Ben and Mark where Harry and Allie found me. We had some food and beer, then Harry drove Allie, Inspector Gadget, and me up to Happy Camp, CA. Yes, it is an actual town…not a children’s camp. It was filled with an odd mix of old hippies, tweekers, and forest service types, the last of which had expanded greatly due to the fires.
We got showers, then drove to a spot to camp near-ish to where we had to be in the morning. Harry had managed to swing us into a volunteer trip for the forest service in which we go rafting and then do a wee bit of work for them: in this case, we tarped over a chunk of an invasive species. Not hard.
I had an inflatable kayak to go down the river in which turned incredibly fast and self-drained. We went down the Klamath River for the day, relaxing, picking up trash, floating, and enjoying the coolness of the river instead of the 100 degree plus heat of the valley. We picked huge blackberries and attempted to stay out of the fire bucket that helicopters were dipping into the river next to us to get water to dump on the fire. They were literally right there, no more than 100 feet from us making a three helicopter loop, dumping the water on the burning ridge above us, which happened to be the PCT.
They got us back to Etna where we got dropped off at the hiker hut. The town of Etna had become something of a small vortex and hikers seemed to gather and stay. It seemed to have everything within a short distance: a cheap place to stay, a grocery store, the post office, a bar, a brewery, and a thrift store. When we got there, we found Hop-a-long, Trooper, Navi, Extra Credit, Cactus, Trip, Hollywood, Zepher, E.D., Scrub Rat, Doe Eyes, Spins, and Baboon.
Way later than planned, Hop-a-long, Trooper, and I got a ride up with Still Phil, one of the Indiana Boys who had gotten off trail to go back to school. Doe Eyes and Scrub Rat got a ride at the same time in a 1977 RV with a couple who does a Scott Valley podcast of local news.
We all went up trail for varying distances just to not camp right next to the road. Hop-a-long and I stopped first at a small campsite because both of us wanted to cook dinner with a wee bit of daylight left. Chances of thunderstorms were high that night and the crazy cloud patterns clearly suggested an entertaining night. A warning had flashed across my phone before we left town to watch carefully for lightening fires. Great. More fires. The whole damn west coast is burning!
A woman came up right after dark with no lights and two horses who freaked me out for a moment. I just heard the big animal noise coming toward us, turned my bright light on and she identified herself. At least it wasn’t a bear, I thought.
That night wasn’t actually bad. I saw one bolt of lightning quite far away and it rained for a maximum of 10 minutes, or just enough to wake me up to make sure the tarp would keep me dry and not blow away.
In the morning, we started at a decent time and passed Doe Eyes and Scrub Rat’s tent in an amazingly small spot about half an hour later. Of course, there were much better spots about a tenth of a mile later, but that’s how the trail works.
About seven miles of that section was this really annoying rocky stretch with sharp ups and downs, the rest was pretty cruise-able. Right at the top of the last sharp bump, Hop-a-long and I took a break and up walked Trooper who we thought was ahead of us. He had a very entertaining story. It went along the lines of this:
“So, I camp up at the first water and right as I’m going to bed, I heard a large animal in the bushes. I picked up a rock and threw it over there and a mother fuckin’ bear barreled downhill. Sounded like a 300 pound boulder rolling downhill. Then, I wake up to noises, I pick up a rock and shine my bright light and it’s three mother fuckin’ deer. Not long after, the mother fuckin’ rain started, so I got up and set up my mother fuckin’ tent, got in, then it stopped! Like someone just flipped a mother fuckin’ switch! I fell back to sleep only to wake up to more mother fuckin’ noises. I pick up a rock and the same mother fuckin’ bear is over there!” Trooper recounted with full arm gestures.
“That’s an impressive amount of ‘fucks’ you got in that story,” I laughed.
“I was fuckin’ pissed!” Trooper said, not laughing. “I got up at 7:30am, but ended up falling back to sleep until 11:40am and left at noon.”
We hiked awhile longer and ate dinner by a locked old forest service cabin. While we ate, we saw kids out of no where and we asked where the road was because that many kids that young did not come in that far. After asking several times, we discovered a road 4.5 miles away by an easy side trail. Two forest service types came over to chat as well for a bit.
When we finished dinner, we set out to climb up and over another ridge to camp near Paradise Lake. The trail became fairly overgrown for that stretch and I cursed Yogi’s guidebook which told me the overgrown trail would be over after section o. The only other notable thing we saw were the goat people the forest service people told us about camped right on top of the ridge. With the wind raging, they seemed to need a fairly large campfire, for what, I’m not sure. Let’s think about this a minute. Windy ridge. No near water source. Extra dry conditions. Large fire. Not smart dude.
We found decent camping and passed out down by the lake outlet after I almost stepped on an extremely large toad.
The trail only had one more climb before it took a slow, long descent into Seiad Valley, filled with poison oak. It’s hard to watch for it when your body wants to barrel downhill toward beer. Before I gave into listening to music, I heard a large animal noise only to look over up the hill at the biggest black bear I’ve ever seen about 30 feet away from me. It quickly ran away, up the hill, fast for what seemed like a 400 pound, musky smelling bear. It stopped at the top of the hill and looked back at me for a moment before running over the other side.
I put on some music and cruised downhill trying to avoid the poison oak as best as I could. At the bottom, we hit a dirt road on which we had to walk almost three miles down to the Klamath River, then a paved road around to the bridge and into Seiad Valley. Hop-a-long and I had a brilliant beyond brilliant plan to cut off the paved section by swimming across the river while floating our packs on our sleeping pads. Since I had floated down the river already, I knew there were calm spots and super shallow spots, but the terrain shot our plan down. From the road, a 40 drop through poison oak and blackberry bushes separated us from the river. We chose not getting poison oak, walked around and complained about the pavement.
When we walked into “town” we discovered everything was right in one spot. The post office, the store, and the cafe were in one building and the hiker friendly RV park run by Bruce, wearing a Dead shirt, was immediately next to it. That was town. We camped at the RV park for $10 and got some tasty beverages at the store before it closed at 9pm.
We decided to leave figuring out the fire detour for the morrow.