The next weekend after we managed to get the two more remote peaks in the Seward Range, JT and I set out again for the other two: Seward and Seymour. No one else opted to go with us after our last trip story at the SUOC meeting.
The CV joint had started to get pretty bad on JT’s car; when we drove on the highway the week before, we really couldn’t hear each other talking and had opted to blast music over the loud sound. Instead, this week, we both drove each of our
cars to JT’s house where his brother, a mechanic, would look it over and we would take my car up to the Sewards. Since we left late, we knew we would end up hiking in, at least partly, in the dark. When we hit Corey’s Road, we went along to the “road closed” sign like the week before and we parked my car before it and examined the road to see if we could get my car to go the extra two miles so we didn’t have to road walk a total extra of four miles. That just did not seem appealing. Then we noticed that where we had parked, we saw at minimum six signs saying no parking so the snowplows could turn around. Now we had a true dilemma: park, walk an extra four miles and possibly have my car towed, or go the extra two miles and risk getting my car stuck on the side or in the parking lot near the gate. While we debated these two terrible options, a jeep rolled out slowly — with Pennsylvania plates — and we stopped them to ask about the conditions of the road further down. The man stopped and told us that it’s doable, but parts had quite a bit of slush on it. As he tried to leave, the jeep seemed to stall out unexpectedly and he seemed to have a hard time getting it to start and go again. As we almost went to help him, he got it started and left.
“Ok, first off,” JT started, “Jeeps are terrible in snow. Second, he’s from Pennsylvania. Third, I don’t want to walk the road more than we already have to.”
I was a little reluctant, but decided to try it.
“Just get over the bump and if you can’t get over that part, it will be easy to push you back here. Plus, we have crampons!” JT said.
So off we went, past the “road closed” sign to the gate. It actually went pretty well and we made it just fine to the rather soggy parking lot. Pleased with ourselves, got our boots on and set off down our three-mile road walk that we remembered all too well from the previous week. It did not take long and we remembered landmarks to let us know how far we had gone. We found, to our pleasant surprise, less snow on the road. Once we hit the trailhead, we took a snack, get the headlamp ready, and put on the snowshoes break. We set off and once we hit the junction of the foot trail or the horse trail, we went down the foot trail. Instead of doing the winter route, we planned on using the summer route
up Seward because it would be easier to hit Seymour that way. Even in the winter, one would have to take the summer route over to it. We joked at the discrepancy between the mileage amounts between the DEC signs and Adirondack
Journey — and then even between the DEC signs themselves. Basically, we had to go anywhere between 3.8 and 4.5 miles to the Blueberry lean-to.
As we strolled down the path, we found ourselves quite annoyed because we kept taking off the snowshoes and putting them back on again due to large stretches without snow full of mud. After we finally had to put the snowshoes back on for the last time that night, we started finding things in the spring melt. This might be the only saving grace to spring hiking while the snow melts: everything people lost in the winter and could not find due to high levels of snow appears again!
We hit the jackpot with our first finding, a pill bottle full of green goodness! What a find! As we kept walking, our next discovery was a belt. Neither of us particularly wanted it, nor did we really want to carry it out. After a little deliberation, we decided to leave it there and pick it up on the way out if we saw it. The sun had set somewhere in our period of discovery and our last finding while walking was a full blue nalgene with the water unfrozen. While we both felt weird about packing out someone’s nalgene, we decided to pack it to the shelter and use the water for cooking. Since we had no idea if the water had been treated, we figured we’d just boil the shit out of it and then cook dinner.
Once we finally hit the lean-to, we unpacked and began cooking dinner. While waiting for our found water to boil, I heard a strange noise. “Is that you?” I asked JT.
Looking perplexed he said, “No, I thought it was you.”
We both fell silent and listened. Something was definitely making noise under the lean-to. It sounded like the animal was chewing on the wood. Then deja vu set in. I had heard that sound before. Now just to place it. Aha! I heard it on the Appalachian Trail in Massachusetts in the Tom Lenardi shelter! What was that thing? It looked like a zombie. As I went though this stream of consciousness out loud, JT tried to guess the animal.
“A skunk?” he tried.
“No.”
“A raccoon?”
“No.”
“A woodchuck?”
“No,” I found myself perplexed with the name right on my tongue. “Go check it out while I cook dinner.”
“How am I going to check it out? There is snow everywhere,” JT started.
“Just go bend down and look by one of the sides where it probably got under,” I said stirring the couscous.
As he started to go over I remembered, “A porcupine!” I said, excited that I remembered.
JT stopped, “You wanted me to stick my face by a porcupine?! You know they can shoot needles!”
“Oops. I forgot about that part,” I laughed. “Dinner’s ready though.”
“Really? You couldn’t remember a porcupine? Seriously?” He kept mulling it over.
“Where’s your spoon?” I said.
“Porcupines aren’t zombielike,” JT kept going.
After eating a late dinner and making use of some of the green goodness, we fell asleep to the sounds of a porcupine underneath us, hoping it would not decide to come out. When we woke up, we found a brilliantly sunny and warm day. So warm, that we both had to take off layers almost immediately. I only hiked in my base layer because with the pants on, my legs overheated. We headed for Seymour first. Of the two, Seymour was supposedly the easiest. Find the path, then go up, basically. As we went in search of the herd path, we found the Seward path almost immediately, far quicker than we expected. Not too long after that, we hit the Ward Brook lean-to and then a path going off to the right. Because we had not gone far, we doubted if it was indeed the path for Seymour, so we kept going a bit, just to check. When all the evidence of other people walking went away quickly, we determined it was. As we began following it, we peeled more layers off. Running into a few confusing areas evident of people in the past walking in two different ways, we found the path most traveled each time. Somewhere between a third and half of the way up, we found a snack log to stop for a few minutes. The sun shone brightly and no clouds blocked out views.
Continuing onward, we followed the herd path most of the way up, until we realized we lost it somewhere. Instead of trying to find it, we noticed that we were pretty close to the top and we just went up in the least resistant way. After the previous week’s bushwhack, we tried to avoid thick cripplebrush. We saw a more open area off to the east, so we headed up and east. This proved to be a magnificent decision because it gave us spectacular views of the inner peaks. The outer peaks, such as the Sewards can offer such views of the usually higher, more travelled inner peaks.
We reached the summit in no time and had a small snack. Offering no solid view, we peered through the trees, bare from winter, to see a bit. Deciding to eat lunch at the Ward Brook shelter to have more energy going up Seward, we headed down Seymour.
Once we hit the shelter between the herd paths for the two mountains, we found some water and ate lunch examining the map. This time we had drawn the trails on the map from the internet so we at least had an idea of where they should lay. JT dried his shirt of sweat on his hiking poles in the sun as well. It really had gotten that warm. So much so that we both noticed that our tracks going up Seymour had melted almost away by the time we came down. After about an hour’s lunch break, we set off for JT’s 46th peak and my 41st: Seward. It proved to be one of the hardest fought peaks either of us did. With great enthusiasm, more on JT’s part than mine, we set off along the summer route up the mountain.
Within about 100 yards, maybe a little more, we lost the herd path. Both of suspected we would end up bushwhacking, but neither of us expected to lose the herd path that quickly. We wandered around trying to find it a few times. Perplexed we reread the guidebook’s description: follow the stream up until its end, hit a cliff, go left until you can climb up easily and the summit is a ten minute walk. Hmmm. This should not be difficult.
In our wanderings, we found a freshly slain deer in a pit and coyote footprints, hair, and poop surrounding it. Looking around, we realized why — higher on both sides of us, the coyotes probably preyed down on the deer as it went
through the deer run. We saw its full spine and heart sitting there in the pit and the blood all around it in the murky water.
Moving on, we continued to follow the stream as best we could until the brush got annoyingly thick. Thinking, we had to move left at some point, we tried moving left a bit earlier and began bushwhacking through the most open path we could find. We tried walking over an unbelievable amount of spruce traps, falling in a few of them. Frustrated, we paused and talked through a plan. After some deliberation, we went back toward the stream and tried to follow it a bit more closely since we had gone so far left we could barely hear it anymore.
Not too long afterward, the brush became too thick again and we found ourselves forced left again. Once we got a view of the mountains to the north/northeast of us, we tried to pinpoint where we were and guess our elevation.
Unfortunately, we had not gained much elevation and thought we had over a thousand feet to go. Frustrated, we decided to just go toward the most open path. Occasionally we found a little ribbon tied to trees and thought we might as well follow that. We even found part of a plastic bag tied to one. Then, JT found a Sunto visor on the ground and tried to convince me that we should go that way since people had been there before.
Pushing on, we found another drainage to the east of the one where the herd path supposedly was. Pondering our options, we decided to just follow this drainage up because a.) it was clear, b.) it went up, c.) it was still frozen over and we
could walk more quickly. At a few points we could hear water underneath us and we hoped the snow wouldn’t break through.
For the first time in a while, we found ourselves making progress. Then it opened up and we could see what we thought was the summit. The only thing in our way was a large 300 foot (or so) slide covered in a significant amount of snow. We took a snack break as we checked the snow pack because we knew this could take a lot of energy.
JT started upward, kicking in large steps. He yelled down that it was difficult, but the snow held just fine. The only issue was that it stuck to the snow shoes making them much heavier, the same problem as last week. Every few steps we had to lift each snowshoe and either shake it or hit it with a hiking pole for the sticky snow to release. We went one at a time up the steep sections so we didn’t overload the snow. Forty-five minutes later and me getting slightly freaked out, we
reached the top of the slide. Looking behind it, we got some of the most spectacular views that I have seen in the High Peaks region. All because we weren’t anywhere near the trail.
As we paused to take the views in, we also noted the cripplebrush we would have to plow through up to the summit. The profanities began to drop as we climbed through trees, over spruce traps, under large branches, and over five false summits. Yes, five. When we got to the last one, both of us thought the next one was actually lower than the one we stood upon until JT spotted the familiar yellow disk…about two feet above the snow pack about 40 feet away. We clamored over to it and took a sigh of relief. We had 360 degree views because we stood on at least five feet of snow. We laughed that the yellow disks are usually about two feet above my head in summer conditions. It had taken us five hours to bushwhack up what should have been a two-ish mile trail.
JT sat on his pack and drank the 22 he brought up to celebrate getting his 46th peak. I gave him congratulations as I ate a cliff bar. Checking the time, at 7:45, the sun had begun to set and we watched as it lowered beneath the foothills in the distance and the glow that it placed over the inner peaks in the opposite direction. As much as I cursed the snow hiking up Seward, I thanked it for giving us more of the terrific views, especially the ability to see 360 degrees on a summit which was not bald.
After half an hour and a sunset, we gathered ourselves to go down. We saw where the herd path should have brought us up, but we decided to follow our own tracks down because we knew they got us to the trail at the bottom. JT made a good point when he said that not following our tracks down would probably make us spend an unexpectedly cold night in the woods. Then we realized that he had forgotten his headlamp at the lean-to and we had to share mine. Luckily, I had just changed the batteries and it gives off a startling amount of light.
We bushwhacked back to the slide slowly, but surely, following our footprints and decided to slide down the slide on our butts one at a time. Excited to make up some time, JT went first, bit by bit. When he got down, I went. The ride proved quite exhilarating as each of us had paused to slow our momentum and make sure the whole thing wasn’t going to let go after us.
Continuing downward, every time we crossed a spruce trap, I turned around so JT could see where it lay. It went like that until we hit the trail at the bottom and we checked the time. It took us three hours to get down, making Seward an eight-hour bushwhack. The tiredness had hit us both and we meandered back to the lean-to where we each ate a cliff bar and went to bed. The day was my second longest hiking day: fifteen hours and fifteen minutes, falling only fifteen minutes short of my longest day.
Again, we fell asleep to our downstairs neighbor who I supposed was a porcupine. However, we didn’t hear it too long.
In the morning, we took an incredibly lazy morning and read the lean-to log, which unfortunately only had about six entries in it. One of which we found went to SUNY ESF and called himself “Bird Man.” We wracked our brains trying to figure out who it could be, but came up empty. We enjoyed the last of the green goodness and headed out slowly.
Once we hit the road, we noticed the distinct difference in snow as we could walk on dirt for a majority of it. This excited us both immensely because both of us wanted to put the snowshoes on the shelf for a bit.
However, this adventure did not end when we reached the car. Far from it. We put everything in the back and changed clothes and shoes.
As much as we found ourselves enthused that the snow had mostly melted off the road, we found ourselves not enthused that it had melted around the car. I managed to back up about two feet before the front tires dug themselves into muddy, slushy holes and spun out. Fantastic.
At first, we did not think this was a big deal and began trying to move forward out of the holes. This failed. We tried stabilizing the drive wheel that spun and JT pushed. This failed because my car became stupid and switched its drive wheel from the stabilized one to the spinning one. We tried stabilizing the other wheel. Fail. It switched again. We tried sticks, we hacked the ice out with crampons and the butt of the snowshoes. Then we tried boards from the signs that were near us on the ground. Fail. Finally, JT gets it forward a bit out of the holes, but it won’t grip there either. During this process, it began to rain, worsening our situation. We got back in the car and tried to think. Then we remembered we got minimal cell service there. Enough to text, not enough to call. Then I decided to try Karen because Tupper Lake was only about 15 minutes from us. The text read: “Hey Karen. JT and I were wondering if you knew anyone free in Tupper that could unstick cars from snow.”
She messaged back: “Oh no! Let me call my dad and Will’s friend.”
I texted: “Thanks! We’re at the gate to the Seward’s trailhead, from Rt 3, take Corey’s road back, then we’re two miles past the road closed sign.”
A few minutes later: “My dad and uncle are on the way! They will be there in about 20 minutes.”
I responded: “I owe you big time!”
True to the text, twenty minutes later, a red truck came out with her dad and uncle who were cheery, loud, and extremely helpful. We explained what happened and they laughed and said, “Well, let’s try pushing with three of us and see if that works. If it doesn’t we’ll work something else out.”
I got in the car and the dad, uncle, and JT pushed. On the third heave, I eased the gas and we got back enough to get out. Cheers all around! They decided to go ahead of us and make sure we got out past the road closed sign. Before they passed us, the uncle leaned out the window and jokingly said, “Did you miss the road closed sign?!”
Slowly but surely, we got the car out and thanked them again for all their help. We had tried for two hours before we gave up and texted Karen.
Moral of the story: don’t take a two-wheel drive car past a snowy road closed sign. And, of course, Karen to the rescue!